October 27, 2013

MY FAVORITE DESIGNERS

I have been designing and making jewelry for over 25 years now, but I have always been a consumer of art and design. I decided to share three of my favorite designers from the jewelry and fashion world. They are very different form one another in their final products and work processes, and in each one I love a slightly different part. But all of them symbolize three key elements for me: An outstanding design, the highest quality of production, and a touch of innovation. 

1. NIESSING
The well-known jewelry design company from Germany made its mark on the design world by the use of innovative production techniques. Niessing's prominent design is the "Niessing Spannring", based on the invention of inlaying stones with tension setting. The exciting and trendy new design was followed by many attempts to reproduce it, but without success.


The tension ring / Niessing's Spannring


The success of Niessing's tension ring lies in the production technique of the metal ring itself. Whether made ​​of steel, gold or platinum, the ring is sculpted by the carving of substance out of one block of metal to create the ring shape. In this way the material remains strong and dense, and unlike metal that has been processed and bent it avoids the phenomenon of "springback". Therefore the product is very durable, and there is no danger of ever losing the set stone.

 The stone seems floating calmly, yet is secured with one of the strongest setting techniques / Niessing's Spannring

Innovation, quality, and a pop of color / Niessing's Spannring

A downside of this work method is the lack of efficiency - when carving a ring out of a block of material, a lot of substance gets lost on the way. The waste of valuable material results in a more expensive process. However the outstanding quality of the "Niessing Spannring" justifies that. Its superb quality, uncompromising strength and setting security make it a lifelong piece and one that is definitely worth its price.



Physical forces are a mystery to the eye / Niessing's Spannring


 2. MAJORAL
Spanish designer Enrique Majoral differs from Niessing in terms of production technology. His works are created with traditional and even somewhat primitive techniques and the jewels come out sophisticatedly simple. Majoral's jewelry lines are based on basic shapes such as discs, drops, etc. With simple bindings and well-educated designs, the results are spectacular.



Simple bindings and smart designs / Majoral Earrings

Using images from nature / Majoral Necklane


The artist is inspired by Spanish and the Middle East cultures. His pieces are organic, fluid and full of inspiration and magic. The vast majority of Majoral's jewelry is made with gold and silver, simulating shapes of leaves, drops, stars and other natural images. The perfect combination between design and good taste leads Majoral to a safe place in my short list of favorite jewelry designers of all time.


Seamless cluster necklace / Majoral Designs

Silver and gold can work together / Majoral Designs

Familiar motifs in new constellations / Majoral Designs

3. ISSEY MIYAKE
Issey Miyake is a Japanese fashion designer famous also for his perfumes and wrist watches. One of his breakthroughs in the world of design was the invention of pleading: A technique of breaking fabric fibers with heat, a method he developed in the 80's. The fabric is folded according to the design and inserted into a heat compression device. 


Pleated Dress / Issey Miyake

A garment full of movement / Issey Miyake

Transforming the body into a moving sculpture / Issey Miyake

This method insures the permanent fold in the garment making it an integral part of Miyake's garmentPleading was an effective tool for providing structure, volume, angular motion and flexibility to the clothes


Pleating adds flexibility to the fabric / Issey Miyake

The human body wears a new shape / Issey Miyake

The technique does not dictate a certain style but serves as a tool only / Issey Miyake


For me, as a sculptor and a jeweler, I consistently try to incorporate structure and sculpture quality in the jewelry I design. This is why I love Issey Miyake's fashion pieces – with his designs he does not merely make clothes, but transforms the body wearing them into a living sculpture. 



Pleated dresses fashion show / Issey Miyake


I'd love to know- who's your favorite designer of all time?

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